Remote Tented Riverside Safari
Location: Pafuri, Greater Kruger, South Africa
Style: Authentic safari experience
Budget: ££
Amongst the dramatic landscapes of Northern Kruger, a stone’s throw away from the borders of Zimbabwe and Zambia, sits the magnificent Pafuri Camp. Pafuri offers guests an authentic safari experience within one of the world’s best game reserves. In stark contrast to the busy main tourist area of Kruger National Park near Hoedspruit, when you stumble upon a herd of elephant drinking from the river here you’ll be the only jeep in sight!
Staying at Pafuri Camp
Pafuri, part of the Return Africa collection, is a tented camp, but don’t expect this to be like any other camping trip you’ve been on. Achieving the perfect balance of an authentic safari adventure whilst retaining all the modern amenities you’d yearn for, this luxury tented camp is exactly what you picture when you dream of staying in the African bush.
19 luxury tented “lodges” extend along the Luvuvhu river, perched on the bank giving guests a panoramic view out into Kruger park, and allowing great sightings of the array of wildlife that come down to enjoy the water. There are no fences at Pafuri meaning animals often venture right in to the camp. During our stay a friendly herd of Nyala bedded down just outside and other guests had the pleasure of a breathtaking elephant sighting a few metres from their bed.
Each of the deluxe tents are spacious and beautifully furnished. Step through the sliding doors from your riverside terrace to a pristinely made bed and a large bathroom beyond. With both indoor and outdoor showers to choose from you can soak in the Kruger air, and spot buffalo, all whilst washing your hair. That being said, watch out for a troop of baboons sneaking up to steal your shampoo!
The tents are connected to the communal areas by a network of raised wooden walkways enabling guests to wander freely around the camp without interrupting the animals going about their daily life below. In-between game drives, head to the swimming pool, located in the middle of camp, perfect for a refreshing dip during the hot midday sun. Surrounded by large comfy day beds and sun loungers, you can relax with a glass of wine or take a nap after your early morning wake up call, all whilst spotting wildlife meandering along the river.
In the evening, before dinner, the camp staff light the impressive boma. Grab a drink from the bar and pull up a chair beside the crackling fire as you soak in the glistening starry sky and listen to the sounds of the bush come alive around you.
Dining at Pafuri Camp
Extending along the edge of the river is the camp’s dining area, where all of your meals are served throughout the day. Meals are all a relaxed affair, with attentive staff on hand looking after you throughout, and plenty of chances to spot wildlife between courses.
Breakfast is served on your return to the camp after the morning game drive, giving you the chance to regale the highlights of your safari over a selection of yummy delights. Alongside a buffet with various fruit juice, cereal and fresh fruit, you can order hot plates from the kitchen. Hot dishes include fluffy pancakes, french toast and eggs benedict cooked to order.
Typical of most safari camps, lunch is a light, casual buffet before the afternoon game drive, during which you’ll select your dinner options for that evening. Serving up a full three course feast for dinner, there are two to three dishes on offer for each course. Choose between a hearty or healthy option for main including some delicious game dishes, such as springbok and crocodile, or a vegetarian option. Dessert gives you the chance to try some of the South African classics, such as malva pudding, or stick to a classic fruit platter.
For a pre-dinner tipple head to the bar for a refreshing bottle of Windhoek lager or a fruity cocktail to enjoy beside the crackling boma under the stars. To enjoy with your meal, Pafuri offer an excellent selection of classic South African wines, such as Meerlust and Warwick Estate Trilogy at very reasonable prices for such a remote safari camp.
Activities at Pafuri Camp
Your days at Pafuri will revolve largely around the two daily game drives, one early in the morning and another late afternoon. Drives are timed to spot the animals when they are most active during the cooler parts of the day, and to catch a stunning African sunset. It can get a little chilly especially at night so make sure to pack some warmer clothes or a blanket.
Whilst the Northern part of Kruger is less famous for the big cat sightings you may find elsewhere in the park, what it lacks in cats it makes up for in its incredible array of birdlife and stunning scenery. Kruger Park is well known for its birding, but the birding in Pafuri in particular is exceptional with over 350 species known to inhabit the area. Prepare to be wowed by the likes of the colourful orange-winged pytilia and racket-tailed roller to the larger Pel’s fishing owl. Whilst your guides will have a couple of pairs to share in the jeep, bringing your own binoculars is crucial for some serious twitching.
Aside from the birdlife you’ll likely encounter a wide variety of other game, large and small. Common encounters include impala, nyala, kudu and water buffalo. With Pafuri being one of the magnificent elephant’s favourite winter spots there’s also a chance of some memorable encounters with these ginormous beasts. We’ve also been told there is a resident leopard in the area, so if you’re lucky you may well spy the elusive cat hiding away amongst the branches.
Animals aren’t the only incredible things to see that you can experience at Pafuri though. The region’s dramatic and varied landscape provides some breathtaking views which you’ll come across on your game drives, and as a bonus they make cracking sundowner spots.
One such spot is the famous Crooks Corner; the confluence of two rivers, the Limpopo and the Luvuvhu. Here lies the natural three way border between South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe, named after the smugglers and poachers who would use the crossing point to evade prosecution by fleeing to a neighbouring country. Depending on the time of year you visit the river may be low enough for you to walk part way across and stand in the middle of the border between all three. Keep your eyes peeled along the water’s edge for sunbathing crocodiles and hippos lurking underwater.
Our favourite spot for sundowners though has to be Lanner Gorge, one of the area’s best known natural wonders and definitely somewhere to put on your list to visit. Although this spot is a fairly long drive from camp, there are some chances to spot wildlife along the way, but Lanner Gorge is all about the killer views. On arrival, a short scrabble up onto the rocks and you can marvel at the incredible 360 degree views across the gorge and into the wilderness beyond. As with all evening game drives, your guide will bring up a cool box with your choice of tipple to enjoy as the sun sets and a kaleidoscope of colours ripple across the horizon.
Key Information about Pafuri Camp
How to get to Pafuri Camp?
The Pafuri area, also known as Makuleke contract park, is located at the Northernmost tip of Kruger National Park, so far North you’re almost in Zimbabwe! Most visitors to Kruger tend to start their journey in Johannesburg from which you can either drive or get a road transfer up to Pafuri. Although the journey is around 7 hours long, the drive is very easy, pretty much heading along one straight road from the city up to the Pafuri gate entrance to Kruger Park. As the camp falls within the National Park boundaries, make sure you leave with enough time to arrive at Pafuri before the gates close, current times are available on the SANParks website. There is also a small airstrip 5 minutes from the camp, to which charter flights can be organised through Return Africa if preferred.
Should you be driving from another part of Kruger National Park, bear in mind that speed restrictions within the park can mean that the journey takes longer than you may expect. Factor in several stops to marvel at the elephant crossing the road or the giraffe craning their necks to eat from the tall trees and you may do best to set side a whole a day to get from Hoedspruit to Pafuri. It is also worth noting that the further North you travel, the less facilities and petrol stations are available so remember to fill up before you leave the central part of Kruger. In our opinion, this is the best way to get to Pafuri, with the added bonus of a mini safari en route!
What are the Pafuri Camp rates?
Being away from the main tourist route and private reserves around Hoedspruit, Return Africa Pafuri Camp offers great value rooms compared to some of the luxury camps found elsewhere in Kruger, especially when taking into account the stunning setting, level of service and luxury surroundings you will enjoy during your stay.
Expect to pay in the region of ZAR 4,000-5,000 (£220-£275) per person per night for two people sharing a luxury tent dependent on the season. There are also family rooms available sleeping up to four people for a similar cost per head. Rates are inclusive of two guided game drives a day and all food during your stay, drinks (excluding sundowners) are chargeable at an additional cost.
Additional charges on arrival include the SANParks Kruger tariffs payable at Pafuri gate, currently ZAR 83 (£5) per person, and conservation levies of ZAR 150 (£8.50) per person payable to Pafuri camp.
What will I see on a game drive with Pafuri Camp?
Despite not being a Big 5 camp, the lack of big cats is more than made up by the abundance of other wildlife in the area. The birding you will enjoy is some of the best in the world and you will likely have some excellent viewings of the other big game, including elephants and buffalo. Away from the game drives, with the camp’s envious setting on the banks of the River Luvuvhu, you can spend lots of your free time chilling by the pool and spotting all sorts of game coming down to drink. If you’re lucky you might even glimpse the green eyes of the elusive leopard over dinner. Oh, and what’s more, unlike in the South, what you won’t see is another jeep all day!
Our final thoughts on... Pafuri Camp
If you are choosing one camp to stay at during your time in Kruger and your sole focus is to spot an iconic pride of lions snoozing in the shade then you’ll probably be thinking that Pafuri isn’t the right choice for you. However, you’d be seriously be missing a trick. The setting of the camp, the welcoming nature of the staff you meet and the beauty of the region were some of the best we have experienced in Kruger.
Find Out More…
Pafuri Camp – https://www.returnafrica.com/activities/pafuri-camp/
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Many thanks to Pafuri Camp for hosting us during our time in South Africa. As always, all thoughts and opinions expressed here are entirely our own, we wouldn’t recommend something if we didn’t love it!